Sunday, August 11, 2013

Puerto Montt and Castro, Chile

Puerto Montt and Castro were the last two stops before reaching our final destination of Valparaiso, Chile.
Puerto Montt (pop. 155,000) was founded in 1863 and settled by German immigrants and is a major port for export of farm raised salmon and mussels. It is also the gateway to the Lake District of Chile.
We were offered two tours out of Puerto Montt and we chose the ten hour trip to visit Puerto Varas, the Petrohue Rapids, and a short boat trip on Lago Todos los Santos in the shadow of the beautiful Osorno Volcano. Unfortunately, the rain obscured our view of the volcano and washed out the road to the lake. After many phone calls to the tour office our convoy was turned around to retreat towards Puerto Varas and an early lunch.
The lunch spot was the Yan Kee Way Lodge on Lago Llanquihue (nice play on words there) which is owned and operated by an American. On a clear day one has a nice view over the lake with Volcán Osorno looming in the background, but not today. It soon became a running joke with the guide that there really was no volcano, only talk of one! Because we had time to spare, we lingered over lunch then had a leisurely stop to wander around Puerto Varas. Before returning to the ship we visited the local market in Puerto Montt.
Of course, some of the passengers started to gripe about the couple of sighs that we had missed and at dinner many were still talking about it. When we returned to our cabin after dinner, there was a letter from the shore excursions manager informing us that we would receive a 40% refund on the abbreviated tour!! It spoke volumes to us as to what kind of service is provided by Compagnie du Ponant.
Yan Kee Way Lodge
Motorcycle art in the lodge
Flora at the lodge
Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in Puerto Varas--the outside is covered in sheets of corrugated steel

Puerto Montt market
Colorful mussels
Many varieties of potatoes
Castro, on Chiloé Island, was founded in1576 making it the third oldest city in Chile. It is known for its palafitos, wooden houses on stilts; the island itself is known for its wooden churches. We spent about four hours visiting the town and the island villages of Chonchi and Villupulli during periods of light drizzle and rain, typical for this part of Chile.
Palafitos in Castro
Street art
Strange architecture
San Francisco Church
Even the columns are made of wood!
The exterior of the church is painted galvanized iron
The wooden church of San Antonio de Padua in Villupulli
Iglesia San Carlos de Chonchi
interesting window treatment on home in Chonchi
Siding patterns
Street art in Chonchi
Let sleeping dogs lie!
Castro harbor
Reflections


Thursday, August 8, 2013

Villa Puerto Edén and Caleta Tortel

 

Purto Edén was the second of our unscheduled stops on this cruise. This area receives an average of 226 inches of rain each year (average precipitation in Green Bay is only 29 inches) with some precipitation falling almost every day of the year. The village has less than 200 inhabitants and is considered one of Chile's most remote inhabited places similar to Easter Island and a permanent civilan settlement in Antarctica. There are no roads in the town, only wooden boardwalks to get around on. It is linked to the outside world by a ferry service that runs between Puerto Natales and Puerto Montt and a weekly boat that takes its main products, fish and mussels, to market. We had a lovely , sunny, two hour visit to this last bastion of the Kawéshkkar people.

(Re)tired fishing boat
The replacement?
Typical boatdwalk
Colorful house
Store sign
"Road" work
Water taxi
It was a beautiful day in Puerto Edén
Recovering one of the tenders

Caleta Tortel is another small village along our route that is without any roads. The 550+ inhabitants make their way around town using the myriad of boardwalks, wooden bridges, and steep stairs. It is not an old place, estaablished in 1955 to exploit the forests of cypress that grow in the area. There is a small airport nearby and a road was built to the town in 2003.

Cypress for export
Big project at the entrance to town
Sculpture at the village entrance
Colorful siding on the homes
Even the slides are made of wood--watch out for splinters!
Low tide
Lace curtain in Santa's window
Weeds
Another tired fishing vessel
Staircase to the upper part of town
The milky/green color of the water is due to the glacial runoff
New boardwalk
Old stairway
Immaculate reception?
Colorful paint jobs
The tv in our cabin kept us well informed